Triops Australiensis

Shield or Tadpole Shrimps are an amazing Australian native species found in all areas of Australia except Tasmania and the extreme north and west. They make very interesting Aussie pets!

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Triops Australiensis Shield Tadpole Shrimp Eggs

These little fellas are really a favourite of mine.
Cutest little buggers ever!
Unfortunately most folks hardly ever see them.

This is because their natural habitat, the dry inland deserts of Australia is a pretty harsh and inhospitable place.
When its all bone dry dust, they are sitting hidden dormant as eggs, and when the rains do come and they start hatching by the millions the roads become inaccessible due to flooding.
Places where it isn’t flooded they are still very hard to spot in the wild as the red and orange clay soils murk up the water.

They are a type of crustacean that is rarely seen by the majority of Aussies due to their amazing, dramatic and short life cycle.
Most folks I speak to, even those that have them right at their front doors have never even heard of them.
They start off as small round dormant eggs sitting in dry ponds, creeks, riverbeds and rocky crevasses, even high up on Uluru~Ayers Rock!
They sit there dried and dormant until the rains come, often for years or even decades at a time, totally unharmed despite the very harsh conditions.

When the rains do eventually come they hatch by the millions and take full advantage of the temporarily abundant food.
After hatching they grow really really fast and as they outgrow their shell, they just shed it and grow another one.

In just a few weeks they reach full size and by then they are eating anything they can get their hands on.
They can be quite predatory but the way they gather food is a bit different to fish and other aquatic life.

These guys just zoom around the bottom and sides of the tank like a “creepy crawly” pool cleaner.

Looks quite random and peaceful at first but if you pay attention they are using their little feelers to pick up vibrations in the water and sweep everything towards their mouths.
When a potential food is felt or the prey is tasted or smelled nearby they rapidly change direction and latch on like the “Facehuggers” from the movie Predator!

If insects or plant matter lands on the surface of the water the vibrations attract them and at that point the Triops flip upside down and scoot along the waters surface.
Once located the prey is grabbed by the arms and wrapped by the tail, dragged to the bottom of the tank.
There it is pinned to the gravel where it is drowned and devoured.

I can and do often just sit and watch them for hours.
So much cooler than a goldfish, at least in my opinion..

As soon as they reach maturity they start laying eggs, hundreds and hundreds and hundreds of them.
The reason they lay so many is because water is very scarce in most places and its also temporary.
As the water levels drop and the pools, ponds, and billabongs start to dry up their remaining food is concentrated into a smaller and smaller pool.
This maximises the breeding and growth rates of the remaining juveniles.

After that the oxygen drops due to the concentration of algae, waste and the pollution of the water.
What was once a very watery soup with lots of water and not much critters , is now a thick sludgy smelly stew, and they all begin to die.
This is great news for the bird life who often travel hundreds of kilometers to take full advantage of this huge short term food source.
Bit sad but there is never any waste in nature.

Not to worry though, the Triops eggs are too small to see with the human eye, and because of this they sit safe and dormant, encased in mud or in the loose sand and sediment, happily waiting for the next rains.
Stuck by mud to migratory birds legs a % of them are also relocated to other nearby ponds and pools too.

This next lot of rain could be in just a few months or it could be many decades, but regardless, when it eventually does happen then the cycle just starts all over again.
This very unique lifecycle makes them a perfect teaching aid for schools, parents and kids of all ages.

In the wild their diet includes mosquito larvae, Cladocera species, prawns, fish, tadpoles, worms, aquatic snails, leaf litter, aquatic plants, algae, you name it.
If it’s chewable, then they will eat it!

Here at home in the aquarium I find they love bloodworms live or frozen, dried or live Daphnia and Moina, Simocephalus and Black soldier fly larvae, fish, prawn or chicken pieces, flake or pellet fish food, small pieces of frozen or fresh sliced vegetables like carrot, corn or peas, earthworms, pretty much whatever you have on hand.

In my outside ponds and tanks they mostly eat insects that land on the waters surface at night.
I encourage this by putting a cheap solar garden light on one end of the tank or pond.
Moths are attracted to the light and become a snack for my Triops, and at the same time I get less caterpillars in the garden eating my vegetables too.
I also add the odd bit of fruit and vegie scraps from the garden, and tiny pieces of meat and fish scraps from the kitchen.
Like I say, whatever I have, these fellas are not fussy.

For the first 7-14 days you need to feed them tiny amounts of algae powder daily(provided in the kit), but after that small pieces of high protein foods like any of the above is pretty much perfect. Variety being the key for success.
The water must be kept at least 25Celcius(77Fahrenheit) the entire time for successful hatching, and they must be well aerated, either mechanically with a pump, or by using a very large tank, or both.

Indoors I use 55liter(~15gallon) tanks with gentle aeration and I get great success.
They have an amazing structure on their feet which they breath through, and it is very similar to gills on a fish. The lobed leaf like plate is also the reasoning behind them being called branchiopods.
This sensitive organ really needs to be looked after and water quality is vitally important especially early on.

The water must be carefully changed often once the baby larvae or nauplii are visible, but never more than 20% at a time or the shock of water chemistry and temperature change can be too harsh on them. I say this from sad experience so please take my warning seriously. These are not goldfish or guppies and they must be handled with care because in nature they generally get one big rain and that’s it.

I generally do 20% water changes 2x a week, but if I have a really great hatch(and have a heap of critters per liter of water, all using up oxygen and producing lots of waste)or there is any food sitting uneaten, then I do it more often, as is needed.

The best way to do it is to just fill one bucket with water the night before water change day.
Sit it on top of the tank, and sit an empty bucket below the tank.
The next day siphon one bucket of water out of the Triops tank, and dump it on the garden, then siphon in the bucket of water you prepared the night before.
This minimizes the shock as the chemistry change is very gradual and the temperature should be near identical(straight out of the tap it is often quite hot in summer and quite cold in winter).

When you siphon you may like to cover the ends of your hose with a piece of clean cotton cloth and a rubber band to stop any babies or eggs getting sucked up and dumped by mistake, especially early on.
Once your Triops australiensis are all a couple months old, looking healthy and getting really big, please begin to prepare yourself for their next stage.
In a couple more weeks or months they will all begin to die.

Be prepared for this, and don’t be too sad, as it is just a natural part of their short and interesting life-cycle.
It can not be avoided, but if you are lucky they may have laid eggs for you!

Let the water dry out by sitting the tank in the sun, or if you are super super careful you can just filter it through these Paper Coffee Filters.
Once the sediment is totally dry break up any clumps(I rub it through a very clean sieve) then sit it in a cool dark cupboard for a couple months.
Make sure you date it because it’s super hard to just patiently wait!
You can then pretend the rains have come, refill the tank and start all over again.
If all has gone well you will soon be hatching your own home grown baby Triops!
Pretty much nothing cooler than that I reckon!!!

Triops Instructions

How to grow Triops or Shield Shrimps from eggs.

This is pretty basic stuff and IF you do everything I suggest below, I personally guarantee success.

Select a clean container of at least 10litres (~2.7gallons) made from food grade plastic, glass, perspex. I normally use 55litre plastic tubs or roller boxes with gentle aeration.
Add 5liters of rainwater and the black Triops egg packet to your tank.
Stir really really really well.

The black Triops egg packet already contains a calcium supplement for healthy shedding.
It also contains algae powder and dried plant matter that will be is the first food for the baby hatchlings.

The water will be nice and cloudy to start with, and hatching can begin in 18hours.
It is important that the water is a very green and cloudy because when they are born these guys are tiny clear planktonic critters, way too small to see.
They float around in the water kind of helplessly, and need food to be floating around in the water with them, for easy access.
They can’t actively hunt or search it out yet, they feed mostly by chance.

Step 1 How to Hatch Triops Australiensis Eggs
Pour pack containing eggs food and substrate into water.

Every morning add 500ml(~2cups) of rainwater, and stir gently so as not to damage the baby Triops.
Pouring the water onto the sides of your tank wall will dislodge any floating eggs that got stuck.
These stuck floaters are a common reason I myself failed in the past.
The gradual increase in water depth day by day really increases hatch rates.

Add two cups or 500ml of rainwater daily

When the water becomes clear add one scoop of the algae powder supplied.
This is generally at 5days, then again every 3 days, then later almost daily as despite being near invisible still, they really eat a lot!

Step 3 How to Hatch Triops Australiensis Eggs
Water clearing and baby Triops ready to eat solid food

After 15days from your start date you should have used about one third of your algae powder and the tank should have ~10litres (~2.7gallons) of water.

The water should also be reasonably clean now, and if you are lucky, you should see tiny little Triops scooting around!
If you look really closely you may be able to see them even earlier, but don’t worry if you can’t.
I normally don’t see them at all until they get to pea size, and I too stress out a lot in the meantime.
Just gotta have faith.

Step 4 How to Hatch Triops Australiensis Eggs
Happy healthy Triops Australiensis!

At this point you can feed them tiny tiny amounts of frozen vegetables, carrot, bloodworms, mosquito larvae, dried black soldier fly larvae, dried fish, my Green Mix or even just high protein commercial fish food flake or pellets.

They will eat the food you provide, along with the life that grows on the food as it decomposes, and their growth rate is amazing, doubling in size some days, especially after they shed their skins.

As they get bigger you can move up to bigger stuff like small insects, garden worms, dried whole guppies, prawn, squid or tiny pieces of offal like kidney, heart, liver, along with lettuce, carrot, corn, peas etc.

Once they get bigger they are very very sensitive to poor water quality, much more than when they are babies.

At this stage my sponge filters are a real asset, keeping the water much cleaner for much longer, giving the water a gentle flow, but still allowing solids to sink and not bashing the Triops around.

Regular partial water changes are important too.

What I like to do is when feeding remove one cup or small jug of water(your plants will love that nutrient rich water), and add one small cup of jug of clean water of the same temperature.
The disturbance sort of trains them that when the water gets swirled up a bit, that means it’s feeding time.
It makes them much more active at that time, whixh is handy as that is when I want to watch them.

Remove all uneaten food, keep the diet varied, and most important keep the water clean
An easy way to do this is to tie the food to a piece of cotton string or fishing line, then if the food gets funky after a couple days you can just pull it out.

If all goes well your Triops will soon start laying eggs which you can later use to grow another generation of these amazing Australian native critters!

Pro tips!

Gentle aeration increases hatch rate. It really really does.

Keep the water clean, especially once you have stopped feeding algae powder and moved onto solids.
Sponge filters really help with this, but only use them once the Triops are visible.
You don’t want to suck up or damage any planktonic babies!

Do not try and hatch before, during or after electrical storms.
Wait 1 week!
Lightning delays hatch times and increases the dormancy of the eggs meaning they may not hatch at all if you try now.
It’s an “ionic” thing, as heavy lightning storms are often a tease, with just a little rain.
Where as real heavy seasonal rain often doesn’t have much or any lightning.

Triops know this and won’t hatch well around the times of electrical storms that involve lots of lightning, or large amounts of static build up, as if they did, they would soon dry out and die.

Wet season rains are often preceded by a couple weeks of electrical storms and light showers, before that real heavy consistent rains that Triops need.

Please note.

Each Triops kit I sell has several hundred eggs and not all will hatch.
Of those that do, a large % of the hatchlings will also die before they are even visible due to problems reaching food or molting their skins.
This is normal.

Some will die later from aggressive competition with each other, and some will be eaten by their larger tank mates too.
It’s a harsh old world out there in the desert pools of Australia, and this is all completely normal for this amazing species.

Only the toughest survive with 2-10 per pack being the average survival rate in my extensive testing.
Your water and environmental conditions may be different to me so you may have different results.

I have done extensive testing using a heap of different methods and the above method provides the most consistent results.
If you have any problems with hatching on the first attempt take a look at the FAQ page.

I always test hatch every new batch of eggs and if they do not all perform to a standard I consider acceptable I do not sell them. This is why I am sometimes sold out.

These eggs are grown by me personally, in my tanks, at my house, in beautiful Queensland Australia.
I 100% stand behind the quality of my products.

These are not bulk imported from Chinese labs and stored for years before sale, as other more well known suppliers do…


Why do I want to buy these weird little mini-creatures?

They make great low maintenance pets, especially for kids.
Beats a snow globes or lava-lamps by a mile I reckon! They make a very nutritious foods for fish, poultry etc.
Seriously nutritious, huge amounts of omegas, very high in protein, and a much more environmentally sustainable option than commercial pellets or flakes.

No “trash fish” or “by catch” is needed for their production.
No large scale commercial netting of waterways here or overseas, and no broad-acre industrialized farming is needed to produce them.

They improve the colour of your fish, stimulate breeding behaviour, and are CHEAPER for the backyard or hobbyist to produce.

They stay alive in the main tanks until eaten, and unlike commercial pellets, flakes, freeze dried or even frozen options, they do not pollute the water, even if you feed you fish way too much.

In fact, this is exactly what I do before we go away on road trips.
I just dump in a handful of critters in the Aquaponics and community fish tanks, then walk away.
My fish eat them over the next few days-weeks as required.
As my mini-critters eat algae and bacteria they are actively cleaning up and clarifying the water, improving the conditions and health of my fish in the meantime!
Pretty good system hey!!!

I have a sludgy green pond or water feature. Can your creatures help with this?

Sure can!
Theses guys eat algae and bacteria, so if you have a soupy green or brown mess, they are the ideal natural clean up crew!

They are a live animal, not a toxic chemical, so when the algae gets eaten out their numbers drop in line with it.
If the algae blooms and builds up again(after rain or warmer weather) their numbers build up in line with it too, meaning they eat it out often BEFORE it becomes a visible problem.

I don’t care what the label says, alternative chemicals options just can’t do this.
They require repeated treatment, and cause big problems with the pH of the water, putting any life in or around it at risk.

Plus its a big continuous, never ending expense, that just doesn’t do as good a job as a well balanced ecosystem.

Are Daphnia, Moina, Triops and Fairy Shrimps edible?

I strongly believe they are, but for legal reason I can’t and don’t sell them as a potential human food.
They are sold as pets, pet food and animal models for scientific studies only.

I also can’t offer any advice and won’t answer any questions regarding this.
Just wouldn’t be sensible for me to do so, hope you understand.

That said, it is a fact that in parts of Asian Triops and Fairy Shrimps are used as a food, usually battered and fried like mini prawns.
These are not the Australian species, but they are very similar.

Brine shrimps, which are close relatives of our Australian fairy shrimps were eaten by Native American as a staple seasonal food, and although I have never found any documentation, I would find it very hard to believe that Australian Aborigines did not take advantage of Triops as an easy to catch and nutritious seasonal food too.

Daphnia and Moina species is/was used to bulk up protein levels in some Eastern European and Russian MRE (Meal, ready to eat. Army ration packs) and protein or health bars.

I myself have also personally eaten hamburger patties made from Daphnia magna.
It tasted like a prawn/fish patty but much more crunchy.
I also used to eat a lot of them salted and sun dried like Ikan Bilis back in the day too.
Very tasty.
I love crunchy salty dried fish so they were a perfect snack for me.

As I really liked them, I saw huge potential as a more ecologically sound food than traditional farming of red and white meats.
Even processed into fish sticks or hot-dogs they would be a be a pretty good option I figured at the time.

It was a major focus of mine as where with yabbies and trout in my small dam I could only produce 500grams of meat a day maximum (with an additional ~200gram pellet feed requirement).
In the same amount of water and using Daphnia magna instead I could produce 1-3kilos a day with NO inputs at all.
An additional 100grams of lucerne dust or 500grams of lawn clippings bumped that up even higher to 2-5kilos, every single day!

Daphnia + Water + Sunlight = Algae + Daphnia = FREE, 100% SUSTAINABLE PROTEIN.
Amazing potential, well worth throwing a big chunk of government money at in my opinion.

BUT, please keep in mind it is not something I can personally do, or recommend to you.
The costs are way out of my league.
This is because of the “unknown” aspect.

Here in Australia there has been no major studies done into human consumption of any of these species as a food source.
At least not that I can find? (If you find something of interest I would love to hear about it!)

It is also an insurance thing due to the major potential risk posed by eating any crustaceans, especially these little guys.
They all eat detritus (decomposing plant and animal matter).
It’s what crustaceans eat and one of the reasons some cultures and religions ban the consumption of things like prawns, lobster, and crab altogether.

Detritus is high in various bacteria, most of which are no risk to us humans at all.

The thing is, some are, and without expensive testing there is no way of knowing exactly what you are growing in your particular culture.
Some bacteria can kill you, seriously.
It is not a good idea to eat any of these fellas for this reason.

I can not, and will not, sell any of these creatures to you, if your reason for purchase is for use as a human food.
I can sell pets, pet food and animal models for scientific studies ONLY.

If you tell me your plan is to eat them, then you buy, I will have to cancel and refund your order, blocking your email address from all future purchases.

I do not do this to be a prick, it is a legal obligation.
I will say that one more time in caps so that I am sure you actually read it and understand….


Do you guarantee the eggs will hatch for me. I have no experience and do not want to waste my money?

I 100% guarantee that you will have the same success I do, if you follow my directions exactly.
I say this with confidence as I test sample and hatch each and every batch of eggs I sell.
I do not sell them if I do not get an excellent hatch rate within 2-4weeks, and I do not keep the eggs more than 12months, no exceptions.

How long will the eggs last unhatched in the packet for?

Some studies say 10-100years with no major drop in hatch rates.
Studies also show they can withstand high temperatures and even freezing during that time with very minimal impact on their viability and later hatch rates.

With my production and packaging methods I guarantee they will remain viable for at least 2years, provided the package is kept in a cool dark place during that time, and you follow my recommendations.
Just in a cupboard or drawer is ideal.

How long does processing orders take?

I post on Monday mornings.
If Monday is a public holiday or there is a weather event preventing me getting to town where I am at 4671 Queensland Australia, then I post Tuesday morning and failing that Wednesday at which point I will email you to let you know what is causing the delay.

I print and pack the orders on the weekends, and Friday is the weekly cut off day so if you are in a hurry then a week day is the best time to buy.
An order that comes in on Saturday or Sunday will normally go out the following week, meaning a processing time of 7 to 9 days.
Actually delivery times are on top of this.

How long does delivery to QLD, NSW, VIC, ACT, SA, VIC, take?

I send everything within Australia “Express Post” via the Australia post, rural service.
For Australian delivery from where I am here that means 1-4days delivery time as we are in a “Rural” not “Metro” area and have a slightly longer delivery time.
We are not in a “Next day guaranteed” service area according to Australia post.

How long does international shipping outside of Australia take?

I send everything internationally “Standard International Untracked” via the Australia post, rural service.
As this is an untracked service, there is no tracking number.
International delivery takes 2-5weeks for delivery, if all goes well and there are no delays with your customs service on arrival.
Please wait 6weeks and double check your delivery address and ask over the counter at you local post office before contacting me, just in case there are delays by your customs service on arrival or other unexpected dramas.

I live in WA, TAS or NT Australia, and I want to buy your products?

Sorry, can’t/won’t do it, even if you ask really really nicely.
If you “accidentally” send me money anyway, despite me asking you nicely not to, I will consider it a donation to help cover the costs involved in my continued research.

Thanks in advance, every dollar appreciated, and every 100% non-refundable cent of your donation will be be put to good use.

If you are not sure why I can’t send (particularly the species native to your state that pose no threat at all) please ask your states quarantine department.

I have tried, and after hours on the phone, endless bloody emails, too many to even count, and more than four bloody MONTHS of stuffing around, I have no idea how to comply with the regulations and make your quarantine departments happy.
I also no longer care…

I encourage you to take it up with them yourself if you are super keen.

I live outside Australia and I want to buy live cultures from you?

Sorry, can’t/won’t do it.
Just buy the eggs when available like everyone else please.

Why not?
Unlike the dormant eggs, live cultures may not survive the long slow journey overseas, and/or are very likely to cause dramas with your countries quarantine on arrival.

If you are certain they are 100% legal to import and you are happy to accept all risks associated, I may consider it, but do NOT in any way recommend it.

If confiscated by your state or countries quarantine service, you must pay all costs involved.
You must accept that I will not be held in any way responsible in the event of theft, loss, damage, duties, taxes, fees, fines, DOA (Dead on Arrival), or non-delivery for any reason.
If you are determined, you have a good understanding of your countries importation requirements, and you are happy to accept all risks involved then CONTACT ME and we can have a very quick chat about it.

I say again though, it is NOT something I recommend, and YOU are responsible if YOU decide to go down that road.

NO REFUNDS or DRAMAS and keep in mind I don’t like stuffing around with paperwork or government departments.
If that sort of stuff is needed, then the answer will be a polite “no thanks”.

No offense intended, I’m just a lazy dude that likes the quiet life.

Can you send via EMS or Courier instead of Australia post?

There is no depot here so it would mean an hour drive each way just to lodge them, much higher costs, and more importantly, I just don’t want to..

Sorry, really busy already so it isn’t something I will consider doing.

If we ever get a local depot or prices get more competitive of course that may change, but definitely don’t bother asking me in the meantime.

Can I just come over to your place and pick up in person?

Not a social dude, Mrs isn’t either.
“Anti-social” would be a much better descriptor..

Please don’t ask me just in case, as it always gets weird, even when I try really hard to be polite about it.
Especially don’t be offended if you already did, and I said no and told you to check out the FAQS page.
I say no to literally EVERYONE, even local folks I like and have known for many years.
Just how we roll.

Happy to answer your email questions and sell via the website though!
Even happier to swap or barter cool new species for my collection via the mail or visit your place (time permitting) on my next big road trip north or south!!!

I don't have rainwater, can I just use something else?

You can use any freshwater source you have access too, but I only recommend and guarantee successful hatching and live culture survival if you use rainwater, as that is all I have experience doing.

You may want to do an experiment using aged or treated town, tap, river, distilled, or even bottled spring water.

Unfortunately I can not guarantee your results if you do.
See more at this link about RAINWATER.

What sort of container should I use to start a culture?

You can use anything that holds more than 10litres (~2.7 gallons), but I only recommend food grade plastic, glass, perspex or stainless steel fish tanks.
I use 55litre (~14.5 gallons) plastic roller boxes as they are ideal size, cheap and comes with a lid.
Larger containers have more stable temperatures, and harder to over feed, but they are also much harder to judge feeding rates when populations are small in the beginning.
Keep that in mind.

The eggs did not hatch. What should I do?

Please reread the item description and instructions slowly, and making sure you did everything that I recommend, and that you have waited at least a month.
If it is colder or hotter than 15-30celcius (60-85 farenheit), even just for a few hours during that time, the hatch rate will be lower or they may not hatch at all.

Extreme temperatures stress them, and increase their dormancy.
Doesn’t mean they are dead, just they won’t hatch right now.

In that case they need to be dried out completely, rested for a month or so, then start all over again.
This makes them think it has been another full year/season and its time to stop being stressed and get ready to hatch again.
In extreme cases it may take several flood and dry periods before they eventually do hatch.
Stable temperatures avoid this issue so you may want to consider a water heater.

If none of the above applies, please make sure that the creatures you bought are not too small for you to see easily.
You may like to pour or carefully siphon all the water from your container through a fine piece of handkerchief or micron sieve.
They may just be tiny and sitting on the bottom, and I have though I failed heaps of times only to find millions of the little buggers hiding in the bottom of the tank.

If you have waited at least a month, used rainwater, a food safe container of at least 10liters, kept it are a nice cozy warm temperature the whole time, and you have sieved and drained the water to make make sure they are just not hiding, then CONTACT ME.
I will send you a FREE replacement as I 100% guarantee success!

The live culture arrived OK, but a month later the water looks gross and/or they have all disappeared?

If you overfeed them the water gets polluted and if it is just too much to handle for the amount of life in the water, it may even kill them.
If you are using a small container of water this is much more likely, especially if it is getting too much light or the temperature has big swings.

As they are tiny and soft, their body breaks down to sludge in a day, completely disappearing within the week.
It is nearly always just the larger visible the adults that die as they don’t handle stress as well as the young.

If you just give it another month (and continue stirring the water every 3days) your will see them all start to reappear again.

I always make sure to send some adults with resting eggs or ephippia with each culture.
I do this just in case the journey was too rough, or the conditions of your water is too different for the adults to handle.
Adults suffer from stress much more than juveniles.
Eggs can handle just about anything.

So, when the adults I sent molted or even died, some of them were carrying eggs and in good conditions they will begin hatching in 2-4weeks.

If it has been a month and try carefully sieving the water through a fine handkerchief or micron sieve and looking closely at the little lump of sludge that collects. They may have just be hiding in the bottom or too hard to see with your naked eye.

If even after waiting a month, and sieving the water, you still don’t see any, then maybe your water is just too different to handle a live culture initially?

In that case hatching dormant eggs may be a better option?
Try drying out the sediment in the sun for a couple weeks, and breaking up any clumps so its a nice fine even mixture.
Once it has been bone dry for at at least 1month you can start over and begin the hatching process again.

The eggs hatched and I had heaps for a while. Now a month after hatching the water looks gross and/or they have disappeared?

If you overfeed them the water gets polluted and oxygen levels drop.
If it gets to be too low for the amount of life in the water, it may even kill them.
If you are using a small container of water this is more likely, especially if it is getting too much light.
As they are tiny and soft, their body breaks down to sludge in a day, completely disappearing within the week.
It is nearly always just the larger visible the adults that die as they don’t handle stress as well as the young.
If you just give it a month (and continue stirring the water every 3days) your will see them all start to reappear again.

If you have not seen them for a month, try carefully sieving the water through a fine handkerchief or micron sieve, then look very closely at the little lump of sludge that collects.
They may just be hiding on the bottom or too hard to see with your naked eye.

If even after waiting a month, and sieving the water, you still don’t see any, then cross your fingers.
Before they died, they may have produced resting eggs or ephippia!

Even more likely a small % of the thousand of eggs you bought from me, did not hatch and are still sitting dormant in the substrate.

Sieve the water, and dry the sand and sediment out in the sun for a couple weeks.
Break up any clumps so its a nice fine even mixture.

Once it has been bone dry for at at least 1month you can start over and begin the hatching process again.

Can you send to me overseas unlabeled or undeclared, in clear breach of both the export and import legislation of every country in the world?

Please don’t waste your and my time by asking me to send anonymously, or unlabeled, or undeclared, or hidden in a god damn teddy bear!!!

Ain’t gonna happen, not a bloody criminal, and I don’t have time to stuff around individually replying to nonsense.
Not a fan of dramas, especially the legal kind.

Example of typical packaging
Example of typical packaging

I can not afford the huge fines and besides all of that, asking me to break the law via email, or online message, when Australia has some of the strictest data retention laws in the world, is just bloody stupid…

Too busy for stupid, nothing personal, hope you understand.

Here is an example of the packaging I use.
If this is not acceptable to you, please don’t buy my products.
Easy as.

If you buy I will pack and send the way I always pack and send, just like all the others, no exceptions.

I didn't get my order AND I have read the above information about processing and delivery times. I waited a few days-week longer just in case there was a delay along the journey, public holidays, customs issue, or delay I was not aware of?

Bummer, that’s no good.
Please do these 3 things, then tell me you have done them.

1. Check the delivery address on your invoice is 100% correct.
2. Physically ask over the counter at your local post office in case the item is waiting collection or was damaged on the journey.
This happens all the time with the new system and I am not just saying this to stuff you around. It really is normally just sitting there waiting for you and the postal workers have not left a collection notification like the should have!
3. Give me your invoice number, email address and user name.

I will then sort it out straight away!

I own a store, website or market stall. Can I stock your products?

YES! (well maybe..)

CONTACT ME, telling me about your idea, give me a list of products you are interested in and why, your estimated sales, some examples of the products you normally sell and let’s discuss it.

I have a product or species that I want you to sell or buy from me?

Cool, give me all the details and I will have a think about it.
If it’s interesting to me then I will get back to you straight away.

No response from me within a couple weeks is a pretty good determinator of my level of interest.
Please don’t take it personal or get offended.
I’m just a busy/lazy dude and every minute wasted on the computer answering endless emails and spammy nonsense, is time taken away from doing something that really I do enjoy doing.

Feel free to repackage your sales pitch and try again in a month or so if you think I missed your initial message by mistake.
Still no response, then it was not a mistake, and you have your answer.